List only the cues you need now
Begin with a few everyday actions such as coming over, moving away from a doorway or settling on a familiar surface. Ask which words the dog already knows before selecting new ones. Write the intended action beside each cue so everybody understands what counts as a response.
Avoid using one word for several unrelated tasks. If down means both lie on the floor and stop jumping, the context must do extra work. Choose distinct wording where helpful and practise saying it calmly. A short list used consistently is more useful than a page of commands nobody remembers.
Agree on the reward and timing
Decide how you will acknowledge the desired action and what suitable reward follows. One person should not reward an approach while another pushes the dog away for doing the same thing. Talk through common situations before they become frustrating, including greetings, kitchen activity and preparing for a walk.
Keep rewards appropriate to the dog and account for food used during practice. Praise, access to a suitable activity or a familiar toy may also be useful depending on the individual. Avoid assuming that every dog values the same reward in every room. Make sessions easy enough that the dog can understand the connection between action and outcome.
Write the response when things go wrong
Include a simple household agreement: say the cue once, allow a moment, then make the task easier if needed. Repeated shouting does not clarify an unfamiliar instruction. Reduce distractions, return to a simpler version or pause rather than adding physical pressure.
Children can participate only within appropriate adult supervision and suitable tasks. A written cue list does not make them responsible for managing difficult behaviour. Review the list as learning develops and remove words you do not use. If different adults are getting different results, compare distance, gestures and rewards before describing the dog as inconsistent. The most useful consistency is in what people do, not only what they say.
